Tag Archives: Ottoman Empire

Evliya in Medina

I’ve been condensing my Evliya Çelebi treatment to reach the required 10 pages for an upcoming grant deadline. Since Evliya’s own manuscript is approximately 14,000 pages long, he’s not a good influence – though his individual stories can be remarkably concise. On Monday, July 4th, I’d finished trimming Evliya’s affectionate tribute to the Prophet Muhammad’s […]
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Still life with velcro boot

A week ago, I went out in the afternoon because the weather was so beautiful, looking for a café named after Evliya Çelebi that I’d heard about. I took my eyes off the road for a minute and twisted my ankle on uneven pavement, which is everywhere here. The doctor took x-rays and said it […]
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Sunday rambles, circumscribed

The present keeps intruding on my efforts to dive into the past. Of course, the past’s impact on the present, whether unacknowledged or selectively burnished, is everywhere. Fortunately, much of what I need to do during this trip is read and write. It’s a warm, bright Sunday. Warned again to avoid tourist spots, I went […]
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Happy 415th, Evliya Çelebi!

Ottoman historian Caroline Finkel (Osman’s Dream) has a great idea for celebrating Evliya Çelebi’s birthday: name a new bridge being built after the traveler who not only passed through the region four centuries ago but described in his Book of Travels. Here is Dr. Finkel’s article from the Hurriyet Daily News: Let’s call Turkey’s new […]
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The Condor flies in Istanbul

I heard El Condor Pasa today. In 1970, Paul Simon included the song, originally an Andean folk melody, then adapted by Peruvian composer and ethnomusicologist Daniel Alomia Robles, in Bridge Over Troubled Waters. That may partly explain how these Latin American musicians ended up performing the song in Istanbul. It doesn’t begin to explain what […]
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Off to a good start

On Friday I accompanied a class field trip from my host institution, Koç University, on a circuitous route from a metro stop to the Süleymaniye Mosque. We approached the mosque complex from a small residential street that currently boasts more cars than residences. The mosque itself of course is stunning, and  I want to go […]
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Off to Istanbul

Evliya Çelebi, self-proclaimed world traveler and boon companion to mankind, was a child running around the streets of Istanbul when Osman II was Sultan (1618-22).  In little more than a week, I’ll start following Evliya’s footprints, but at a slower pace.  More images and reports to come of Istanbul and Turkey then and now. Others […]
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